Glory Of The Snow (Chionodoxa)

Glory Of The Snow (Chionodoxa)

Jan 28, 2012 // By:Isabelle Fleming // No Comment

Chionodoxa comes from the Greek words chion meaning ‘snow’ and doxa meaning ‘glory’. The English common name for the plant, Glory-of-the-snow, is thus a literal translation of the scientific one. The same is true for the Dutch name (sneeuwroem) and the German name (Schneeruhm or Schneeglanz). The French refer to this plant as Chionodoxa ‘hyacinte des neiges’.

Flowers are flat or saucer-shaped with a conspicuous white eye in the centre and bloom in February or March.

Chionodoxa forbesii

Chionodoxa Forbesii

Requirements

Plant TypeBulb
Hardiness4 - 9
Sun

Full Sun

Partial Sun

Period of InterestEarly Spring
Average Height6 in. - 15 cm
Average Width3 to 6 in. - 7 to 15 cm
SoilWell-drained Soil
Garden UsesBorders, Rock Gardens, Under Trees and Shrubs
FeaturesEasy to Grow

Requirements definitions

Most significant species

Species come from mountain habitats in Crete, Cyprus and Turkey, are hardy and like cool summer temperatures as well. Usually, the number of species is listed as eight. The right number, however, is difficult to establish since there is a fair amount of confusion surrounding the nomenclature. Chionodoxa Siehei was for many years known incorrectly as Chionodoxa Luciliae and more recently has been merged with Chionodoxa Forbesii. However, the plants that are widely grown in cultivation do not belong to the true species Chionodoxa Forbesii but are mostly variants of Chionodoxa Siehei. As per the RHS publications on the topic,the main variances between these species are the following ones:

Chionodoxa forbesii Blue Giant

Chionodoxa Forbesii

Chionodoxa Forbesii

Few, small, upward facing flowers in an intense deep blue with a clearly defined white eye around the stamens

Chionodoxa siehei

Chionodoxa Siehei*

Chionodoxa Siehei

Larger and more numerous flowers than Chionodoxa Forbesii, outward-facing and of a more violet shade of blue with a much larger conspicuous white eye

Chionodoxa luciliae

Chionodoxa Luciliae

Chionodoxa Luciliae

The name C. luciliae (after Bossier, the wife of a Swiss botanist) is the most commonly occurring name in the trade. This little plant, only 4 to 5 inches (10-15 cm.) tall, has few, but even larger flowers than Chionodoxa Siehei, upward-facing and of a pale, more lavender shade. It also features a large but diffused-margined white eye. This species naturalises easily and can also be grown in lawns. Two cultivars exist: ‘Pink Giant’ and ‘Alba’ (white).

Chionodoxa sardensis

Chionodoxa Sardensis

Chionodoxa Sardensis

Has several outward facing flowers of a similar intense blue colour to Chionodoxa Forbesii but with an indistinct white central eye surrounding the stamens.

Most significant varieties

Chionodoxa forbesii Pink Giant

‘Pink Giant’

Chionodoxa forbesii Alba

‘Alba’

Chionodoxa forbesii 'Blue Giant'

‘Blue Giant’

Additional Information

Beautiful Arrangement Ideas

Hyacinthus Pink Festival,Chionodoxa forbesii 'Pink Giant',Tulipa 'Angélique'

Hyacinthus Pink Festival,Chionodoxa forbesii ‘Pink Giant’,Tulipa ‘Angélique’

Anemone blanda 'White Splendour', Chionodoxa forbesii, Muscari azureum 'Album'

A fresh mix of Anemone Blanda, Chionodoxa forbesii & Muscari Azureum

Chionodoxa forbesii 'Blue Giant',Chionodoxa forbesii 'Pink Giant',Crocus vernus 'Jeanne d'Arc'

Chionodoxa Forbesii ‘Blue Giant’,Chionodoxa Forbesii ‘Pink Giant’,Crocus Vernus ‘Jeanne d’Arc’

How Many Plants

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Where to Buy

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Easy to Grow Bulbs

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Chionodoxa Gigantea Alba (25 in pkg.)

Chionodoxa Gigantea Alba. Also known as 'Glory of the Snow'. 6 to 10 star-shaped pure white flowers with yellow centers....

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Planting & Care

Chionodoxa species provide a pretty display when planted among many kinds of perennial plants in the border. They bloom earlier than most species of perennial plants emerge, and thus provide the garden with color early in the season. They can also be planted near very early-flowering perennial plants for creating lovely colour combinations.

Tulip Peach Blossom, Chionodoxa forbesii 'Pink Giant'

Various species of Primula (Primrose), Pulmonaria (Lungwort), Pulsatilla (Pasque flowers), Hepatica, Arabis (Wall rock-cress), Aubrieta and Helleborus (Christmas or Lenten rose) make good planting companions.

Chionodoxa forbesii, Muscari azureum,Anemone blanda Blue Shades

Chionodoxa Forbesii, Muscari Azureum, Anemone Blanda ‘Blue Shades’

The bulbs are equally useful for planting among deciduous shrubs. They can even be used quite well in lawns together with snowdrops and crocuses. Always plant at least 15 bulbs.

Chionodoxa forbesii Blue Giant

Just as with many other kinds of bulbous plants, it is also possible to plant Chionodoxa in layers. An example would be to plant narcissi bulbs at their normal planting depth, add soil to the planting holes up to the level of the bulbs’ noses, and then plant the Chionodoxa bulbs on top. The blue provided by the Chionodoxa flowers is a lovely accent for plants such as yellow and white narcissi or the small early-flowering red tulips. See the layering (lasagna) method.
The bulbs of Chionodoxa naturalize very easily. They not only form bulblets but, under favorable conditions, produce seed which will germinate. Curiously, young plants sometimes suddenly turn up in an entirely different part of the garden. This is often the work of ants that carry seeds to a different place. If an increase in the number of bulbs is desired, the planting location should be left entirely undisturbed: using rakes should be avoided, and weeding should definitely not be done. Also leave the foliage undisturbed in the autumn so that it can decay and enrich the soil at that location. Doing so encourages new growth.

Planting Flower Bulbs


When?



  • ★ To achieve optimum flowering results, it is important to plant the bulbs at the right time. Flower bulbs that bloom early – from January through March – should be planted in the period from September through October. The best time to plant the ones that bloom later (March through May) is from October through November


How?
A number of planting techniques can be used for flower bulbs.

  • ★ One is to lay out the bulbs evenly over the location being planted. It would be advisable to start by laying out the bulbs at the proper distance apart; this will prevent unwelcome surprises when you come to the end of the border. Before the bulbs are laid out, the soil should be thoroughly loosened to a depth of 10 inches. Next you can simply plant the bulbs and they can easily root.


  • ★ The easiest planting method uses a raised planting bed. After laying out the flower bulbs, cover them with a layer of soil about 4-6 inches (10 to 15 cm) thick.After planting, the planted area should be evenly raked and then possibly mulched with organic material 1-2 inches (2 to 3 cm) thick. This will keep the soil from drying out, freezing or panning.



  • ★ If you want amore natural look, it would be best to scatter the bulbs and then plant them where they have fallen.



  • ★ You could also plant flower bulbs in the grass. A piece of sod can be lifted for planting each cluster of bulbs. After positioning them, just replace the sod. Once the sod has been tamped down properly, the planting location will be invisible after a few days.



  • ★ Layered (lasagne) planting extends flowering by planting bulbs with successive flowering periods in layers. The flower bulbs that will bloom last are planted at the deepest level and the earliest to bloom in the spring will be planted closest to the surface. This method can be applied when planting directly in the soil or in pots and containers.



  • ★ A general rule for planting depth is to plant the bulbs at a depth at least twice the height of the bulb, with a minimum of five centimetres. Not planting bulbs deeply enough results in poor rooting. The bulbs will emerge unevenly and produce short spindly plants. Planting too deeply, however, can result in rotting as well as late emergence.


Care


The great thing about flower bulbs is that they are relatively low-maintenance. Annual bulbs even require no maintenance at all. Perennial bulbs need some fertilising, but that’s all they need. No wonder flower bulbs make the perfect plants for gardens.

Enriching with fertiliser



  • ★ Annual flower bulbs need no additional fertilising; their bulbs have already stored all the nutrients they need.



  • ★ Perennial bulbs extract a lot of nutrients from the soil, so these bulbs will need supplementary fertilising. During the growing season, inorganic fertilisers are the best choice since they contain the exact proportions and concentrations of nutrients. They also dissolve easily so that plants can absorb them more efficiently.



  • ★ Inorganic fertilisers should be used only during the growing season; applied at other times, they will leach out of the soil and be wasted. Also be careful not to apply too much inorganic fertilizer; excessively rapid growth results in weak plants that are then more vulnerable to diseases and pests. Applying too much fertiliser can also burn plants.



  • ★ Flower bulbs being used for perennial displays and for naturalizing in borders and beneath shrubs will benefit from an application of fertilizer just as their noses become visible in February/MarchAn application of 2 kg of 12-10-18 compound fertilise per 100 m2 (109.36 sq. y) will do wonders. If you supply this in two applications with a week in between, the bulbs can absorb the nutrients better.


Flower bulbs in the grass



  • ★ Grass in which flower bulbs have been planted should not be mowed until six to eight weeks after the flowering period. By then, all the aerial parts of the plant will have died and any seed produced will have had time to mature.


Deadheading and clusters



  • ★ Most bulb flowers do not need deadheading. The seedpods of botanical tulips, Fritillaria and Allium are even decorative and add visual interest.



  • ★ Long- stemmed tulips intended for perennial use should be deadheaded, however, to keep them from investing so much energy in the production of seedpods instead of new bulbs. When removing faded petals, there is no danger that these will fall between the leaf axils where they could be a source of fungal growth during wet periods.



  • ★ It is also important that flower bulbs that rapidly increase in number should not be allowed to produce excessively large clusters since this can reduce individual bulb growth. It would thus be better, once the leaves have died, to dig up bulbs that are tightly massed together, split them up into smaller quantities, and replant them.


Diseases and fungi



  • ★ Soil-borne pathogens and other living organisms can hinder the growth process of flower bulbs. By selecting the right planting material, choosing the right planting location, and providing proper care, you will get more pleasure from your flower bulbs. If, for example, you have planted perennial bulbs in a damp or shady location and you notice brown tips on a leaf during flowering, the culprit could very well be Botrytis. It would thus be advisable to cut such a leaf away before neighbouring plants could be infected.


 

*Chionodexa Siehei picture is courtesy of Wikipedia

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